Wicklow woman with attitude

Excellent article in the paper today about a 19th century mountaineer, author and photographer who was born in Ireland.
https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/abroad/the-greystones-woman-who-climbed-the-alps-in-long-skirts-to-avoid-scandal-1.4237580

Making places of spaces-part one

Last week I wrote about the roads and routeways of the past but afterwards I started to think about how people knew which routes to follow without the aid of a written language, maps or a compass. The earliest inhabitants of our small island were proficient navigators-they had to be to get here in the first place! As the monuments in Carrowmore, Carrowkeel and the Boyne Valley show, they were also skilled astronomers and mathematicians. There can be no doubt that they used their knowledge of the sun and the stars to navigate their way around the country and, like Brendan of Ardfert and Clonfert, even further afield. 

Prominent hills, woods, rivers and rocks, or man-made structures such as burial mounds, standing stones and ringforts were also used as way markers and indicators of territorial boundaries. Many of these ancient reference points still survive in the names of places today. Ballinasloe (Béal Átha na Slua) for example, is said to be named after béal meaning 'mouth' and áth meaning 'a ford'. Incidentally, one of the earlier names associated with the town was Bac or Back, from an bac meaning 'the bend' (in the river). The name still survives as a townland, which extends from Croffy's Yard to Joe Murray's in Bridge Street. Dunlo, another early name associated with Ballinasloe, derives from Dún Leodha or 'Leodha's (possibly Lowe's) fort' and first appears in documentary sources in the 12th century.  The Annals of the Four Masters record a bridge and castle there at that time. 

At least two townland names located close to the route of the Slí Mhór in Ballinasloe refer to man-made features of some considerable antiquity. Ardcarn, a long townland overlooking the Suck valley on the Creagh side of the town, is derived from cairn meaning 'mound of stones' and is generally indicative of a burial place.  Even more evocative of links to our ancient past, however, is the place once known as Tuaim Catraí, which is the Irish name for the townland of Kellysgrove. It is translated as 'the burial mound of the Catraí', a local tribe descended from the Fir Bolg. There are several references in early manuscripts to the Catraí or Cathraige, who are said to have inhabited land on both sides of the River Suck.

Roswayers at the Stony Man in the Slieve Blooms, June 2017

Although to my knowledge no standing stones survive in the immediate area, many are recorded from around the country and are often found on hills, or where the land changes. Some are associated with the fear bréige or 'false man', so-called because viewed from a distance they resemble the human form. There is a great story in the Folklore Commission Schools Collection  which tells of the fear bréige above Lough Muskry in the Galtees. At  midday the sun would sit directly over the stone and 'many a child weary from haymaking and longing for the dinner hour was told to look up and notice that the sun hadn't yet come overhead (the) fear bréige' 
(https://www.duchas.ie/en/cbes/4922274/4866364/5052610). 

How Ireland has changed.

References

www.dúchas.ie 

http://www.askaboutireland.ie/reading-room/digital-book-collection/digital-books-by-subject/ordnance-survey-of-irelan/

www.logainm.ie
http://places.galwaylibrary.ie/letters/a18381023.html
http://research.ucc.ie/doi/locus/C

You could do a lot worse than browse through the Schools Collection, which has been digitised and is freely available online. You might even know some of the children who wrote the stories.  Here's a link to schools in the Creagh and wider area:
 https://www.duchas.ie/en/src?q=Creagh&t=CbesTranscript&ct=RC

Dreaming on a sunny afternoon

In these days of lockdown, each time I look out my kitchen window I am reminded of people moving through the landscape. Like many  at the moment, I'm working from home, and am, might I add, lucky to be able to do so. It has its challenges. In my case it's the window with a bit of a view. The mighty River Suck, one of the great and ancient routeways of the West, today, in sunshine,  a glistening ribbon below me. Beyond it, a section of the Eiscir Riada rises gently above the callows, heading westwards from a bend in the River and framed by high clouds.

The eiscir or esker, a sinuous series of low hills created approximately ten thousand years ago by melting glaciers, is a physical reminder of the history of people on our island. Many of our modern roads are either built on or next to it. Occasionally it survives intact, such as in Cuillagh and Clonfad. In tandem with the river system, this natural routeway provided access to hunting and fishing grounds and enabled the early population to establish a network of settlements and trade routes. This is supported in part by archaeological finds from the immediate area. Stone tools dating to the Mesolithic (8000-4000 BC) and Neolithic (4000-2500 BC) have been found during archaeological excavations and survey work at Correen Ford, Ardcarne and in Kellysgrove Bog and further west in Barnacragh and Urraghry.

The Eiscir Riada is mentioned in some of the earliest Irish texts and date its use as a routeway to at least the second century AD. According to the Dinnseanchas, or 'the lore of places', the day Conn of the Hundred Battles (Conn Cétchatach) was born, five roads were opened which extended from Tara, the seat of the High Kings to each of the then five provinces. The Slí Mhór or 'Great Road' followed the line of the Eiscir Riada from East to West. The texts also record that the esker was used as a natural boundary. A great battle took place in Maynooth in the year 122 AD between the aforementioned Conn, now High King, and his bitter rival, Eoghan Mór, also called Mogha Nuadhad, who was known for his wisdom and prowess as a warrior. Finally defeated after many bloody battles, Conn was forced to split his kingdom in two equal parts, divided by the Eiscir Riada. The land to the south would be known as Leath Mogha or 'Mogha's half'. Conn retained the land to the north of it (Leath Cuinn or 'Conn's half'), ruled from his seat at Tara.

The Kellysgrove togher (after Prendergast)

In time, as the population expanded, other roads were constructed, some of which have been re-discovered in the bogs across the Midlands. One of the closest known examples to us was found in 1946 in Kellysgrove Bog, part of which was investigated by Ellen Prendergast from the National Museum in August of that year. It consisted of a narrow trackway or togher constructed from horizontal timbers overlying a brushwood and gravel base. Dated to the medieval period, it was suggested that the togher linked the monastic site of Clontuskert with the Teampólín in Pollboy. As the monastic settlements were centres of population and industry in early medieval Ireland, the togher at Kellysgrove may be indicative of wider links with places such as Clonmacnoise and Kilbegly. It's highly likely that the togher formed part of the road network on the Roscommon side of the river, accessed from one of the fording points on the Suck. Up until modern times a ford, which was passable apparently with a horse and cart, was located at the bend in the river between Tulrush and the now demolished Mill in Pollboy. The ford undoubtedly has much older origins and is reputed to have been the crossing point for the armies during the Battle of Aughrim in 1691.

And so, to go back to the beginning. If you think about all those who have crossed these lands before us, followed routes, climbed hills, stopped to take in the view or have a bite to eat, survived plague, battle and famine, rest assured that in time, we will be able to walk in their footsteps and go out into the world ourselves again.

'My eyes already touch the sunny hill, going far ahead of the road I have begun.' Rainer Maria Rilke 'A Walk'

Refs. 

O'Donovan, J. 1847 The book of Rights. The University Press.

Prendergast, E. 1946 Togher at Kellysgrove, Co. Galway. Journal of the Galway Archaeological and Historical Society Vol. 22, 15-18.

https://www.libraryireland.com/HistoryIreland/Conn-Hundred-Battles.php

Go the extra mile for the Alzheimer Society of Ireland

If the Covid-19 restrictions are impacting your motivation, you might be interested in this virtual marathon challenge to raise funds for the Alzheimer Society of Ireland. To register and for further information, please see below. 

Join us this April for The Alzheimer Society of Ireland's first Virtual Run/Walk Marathon challenge. Sadly due to the current COVID 19 health emergency we have had to postpone one of our biggest fundraisers of the year, Tea Day which was due to take place in May. This has had a major impact for us and has contributed to a severe drop in fundraising. However, despite this we are continuing to support people with dementia and their families across the country. The “Go the Distance” Marathon challenge is the perfect way to make those kilometres count all while supporting a great cause. Walk or run the distance of a marathon (42Km) during the month of April to raise much needed funds for those living with dementia in Ireland. You can take part in your own time and anywhere across the country, near your home or in your local park. Our only ask is to make sure to do it safely and in line with the latest government advice. Everyone who signs up will be entered into a draw with the chance of winning a €50.00 iTunes voucher.

Signing up is easy just follow these 5 simple steps

Step 1 Register here and pay the €20.00 entry fee. Step 2 Pick and plan your running and walking routes each week. Step 3 Log each run or walk using Strava,Garmin, RunKeeper, Map my Run or a simple pen and paper. Step 4 When you have completed the 42km distance send us proof by emailing  joanne.williamson@alzheimer.ie or jarlath.coyle@alzheimer.ie with a screenshot of your tracker. Step 5 Once we receive this we will send you on a certificate and an ASI pin to recognise your great achievement! Share your progress with us on social using the hashtags #GoTheDistanceChallenge and #DoItForDementia and we will share all your activity across our channels in the coming weeks! Funds raised from this challenge will go directly to support the 55,000 people living with dementia in Ireland. Thank you for your support!

These are strange days in the world and we, as walkers, are minded to think of the bigger picture and stay in or stay local for the next few weeks. For some of us that means road walking in an urban area. Although no substitute for the uplands or the coast or even the bog, it's a small price to pay considering the sacrifices that many are making. I'm not for one minute suggesting that the blog can compensate for a bit of fresh air, companionship or that satisfied tiredness you get after a good walk, but it might serve to remind you that it's a good time to brush up your skills, check your gear and indulge in some walking-related mental stimulation. Remember, if you want write something for the blog yourselves, please email us at roswaywalkers@gmail.com and we'll happily post it up. We'd love to hear about your favourite walk or trip away or anything at all really, anything to keep us going until normal service resumes. 

Pic © F. Maguire

Gear and general advice

Links to recommended gear lists are on the right hand side of the page. There's one main rule for walking-you are responsible for yourself and it's nobody's job to carry stuff for you, so make sure you have what you need and it's in good order before you leave the house.

For new members, get yourselves some good basics e.g. comfortable waterproof boots with good grippy soles, some good rain gear, and the rest will follow in time. Having the full complement of the most up to date gear on your first day out won't make you a competent hillwalker. Always have your bivvi bag and foil blanket (or the new combination one) in your bag.

Maintain your gear. Simple things like washing the dirt off your boots after a walk, letting them dry out slowly away from direct sources of heat, will prolong their life. Boots and rain gear should be re-proofed regularly. Check the soles of your boots regularly aswell to ensure that the tread hasn't worn down. Products such as Nikwax will keep leather supple and prevent it from cracking.

Layers are the way to go when walking. Two or three lighter layers which you can put on or take off depending on the conditions are better than one heavy one. Keep a hat and pair of gloves in your bag too, as the weather can change so quickly in Ireland, even during our so-called summers.

Check your bag before you go out and make sure you have enough liquid and food plus emergency rations to keep you going.

A good tip is to know where everything is in your bag. There's nothing worse than foostering around a rucksack for your blister plasters on the side of a hill in sideways rain while 20 other people are looking on, at least 19 of which are contemplating leaving you there.

Finally, walk with awareness. If things go awry, you might be the only one in the group who noticed a house or lane back the way which could mean getting the group to safety more quickly. 

Training

The Club subsidises training courses for members, with the proviso that they put the skills learned back into the Club. Training courses completed by members to date include Mountain Skills (MS) 1 and 2 and Remote Emergency Care (REC).

Several training tutorials in basic navigation and map reading are available on the internet. I've attached link to Mountaineering Ireland ones here MI skills tutorials. There's some good information on the BMC website also (see here). One of the most recommended books on learning hill skills/navigation is Carlo Forte's Navigation in the mountains (link to book), which is worth getting if you're interested in taking things up a level (no pun intended).

If anyone wishes to participate in skills courses through the Club, please get in touch with Training Officer Fiona at club email address (roswaywalkers@gmail.com). The courses usually take place over two consecutive days and usually at weekends.

Environment

©F. Maguire

The lack of traffic, both human and otherwise, has meant that the sounds and sights of nature have come to the fore these last few days. Perhaps the birdsong and fox call, the hedgehogs and the hares, the scatters of primroses under the hedges, demonstrate that Mother Nature is there to reassure us but also to remind us of what we are part of. I watched two sparrowhawks soaring and swooping across the field behind the house on Monday. Even to stand there for five minutes and witness their display-part past, part present-brought my mind to the future and hope. We need nature as much as nature needs us and it is entirely up to us to protect it.

Our Club Environmental Officer, Bríd, has drawn up some guidelines that we should abide by and they can be found in the Club Constitution document on the right hand side of the page. Even something as simple as car-pooling or abandoning the plastic and bringing a re-usable bottle or platypus on walks makes a difference.

Planning

Although all Club walks have been postponed for the moment, now is a good time to get out the maps and/or guide books and start thinking about walks you'd like to do in the future or places you think would be good for an away weekend. Our walks' planning meeting is held every November and new leaders are most welcome. The Club ethos is to encourage and assist anyone who would like to lead a walk if they haven't done so before. Get in touch with any of the committee members and they will be happy to advise.

Books, films and sound

We won't get this time again, so put down that bun/paintbrush/powerwasher and treat yourself to some mental stimulation. If you check out the 'view my complete profile' section of the blog, you can see what we're into.

There are so many good books out there. In praise of walking by Shane O'Meara published last year is a little different than most walking books in that it talks about the act of walking itself. If you haven't read Tim Robinson's Connemara put it on your list. I've just finished and can recommend Chris Bonnington's Quest for adventure -an old one but a good one. As is the wonderful Dervla Murphy's book In Ethiopia with a mule if you want to remind yourself of how much we are capable of and just don't know it.  Also anything by Robert McFarlane-The old ways, Mountains of the mind and so many more. The Collins Press have published loads of walking guides for Ireland-lots of areas to chose from. Good stories abound-if you want a good laugh about a good walk try Bill Bryson's A walk in the woods (the film is good too) or Pete McCarthy's Road to McCarthy. 

Mountaineering Ireland also have links on this page MI link to radio broadcasts on Everest related material-well worth a browse. If you're a member of the library, you can access the audiobooks online with your library card. Singing and dancing are good for the soul too and the internet is a good source for some old music especially. My personal top 3 songs about walking are: 

1. Whiskey in the jar (Thin Lizzy)

2. The only way is up (Yazz)

3. High on a hill lived a lonely goatherd (from The Sound of Music)

For a good scare, try some mountain-themed films. Who could forget the chill-inducing Everest from a couple of years ago, the rubbishy Vertical Limit, also set on Everest or Cliffhanger  (Rambo with ropes), partly filmed in Italy in the 1990s. The Way, a popular film about the Camino de Santiago, is also worth a watch, if only to dream about Caminos past. Although a bit loose with the facts, it does capture some of the spirit of the Camino. If anyone has a favourite or a recommendation, we'd love to hear from you. 

Enough warbling-there's work to be done. In the meantime, take care everyone and stay safe. We must look after each other and hope for the best. As the wise and wonderful poet Seamus Heaney wrote 'If we winter this one out, we can summer anywhere'. 
See you along the road somewhere.