Solvitur ambulando - it is solved by walking. Notes on the Camino de Santiago.

A number of Roswayers have walked some or all of the Camino de Santiago routes and a few have walked them more than once, so I thought it might be idea to share some knowledge and advice here for any Club members who are thinking of doing it. A word of warning though-there's currently no non-essential travel to Spain or Portugal. So, if, like me, you have your bag packed for the last six months and your nose is pointed in the direction of Dublin airport-hold fast. This post is only meant to inspire a future plan. 

The Camino de Santiago or Way of St James is not just one route-it's a number of routes through different parts of Spain, France and Portugal, all of which converge in the magnificent medieval city of Santiago de Compostela, the third holiest city in the Christian world after Rome and Jerusalem. Many of the routes follow ancient Roman or pre-Roman roads across the Iberian peninsula. 

The Camino Frances or French Way, which is probably the busiest route, starts from the border town of St. Jean Pied de Port on the French side of the Pyrenees and extends westwards for about 800 kms (approximately 500 miles) across the top of Spain. The Camino Inglés, or English Way extends from the north-western coastal town of Ferrol and heads southwards to Santiago. Although it is known as the English Way, as it was the route walked by English pilgrims, it was also the arrival point for Scandinavian and Irish travellers. The Camino Inglés can be completed comfortably in 5 to 6 days and is a good option if your time is limited. It is less busy than many of the other routes, and accommodation options are quite good. 

There's also a shorter option on the Inglés, starting in A Coruña, the location of a still functioning lighthouse which has stood at the mouth of the harbour since the first or early second century AD. According to the Irish annals, the town is said to have been founded by Breogan, a Celtic warrior who built a tower there-the precursor of the Roman lighthouse. Breogan's grandson, Mil, later set out from this corner of Spain to defeat the Tuatha De Danaan and rule Ireland. There can be no doubt of the connection between both countries. Apart from the cultural similarities, the stone walls, furze bushes and the odd shower of sideways rain make some sections of the route seem like home. 

The Camino Portugués or Portuguese Way officially starts in the capital city, Lisbon, though many chose to start in Porto or the beautiful town of Tui, on the northern bank of the Minho River, which marks the border between Spain and Portugal, and walk northwards from there towards Santiago.  There's also a coastal option on this route and plenty of local specialty wine  and food to be enjoyed. Galician hospitality is second to none.

The Finisterre route, which goes from Santiago to the coastal town of  Finisterre (or Fisterra in gallego), the most westerly point in Spain, follows the route of pagan pilgrims, who believed it to be quite literally the end of the world (finis terra). It was once the location of a temple to the sun known as the Ara Solis. The Finisterre route is the only one which starts, rather than finishes, in Santiago. It's  relatively short (90kms) and takes you through some amazing landscapes, including a deep gorge where Neanderthal remains have been found. The antiquity of the place seeps from the stones. Most people walk to the lighthouse at Cape Finisterre, which guides ships around the infamous the Costa da Morte, where you will find a Camino waymarker marking Kilometre 0-the end of the road. 

It's a pretty powerful place-where the sea and land and sky meet in unfettered wildness.

There's plenty of information on the internet on all the different routes-too many to go through here. A great starting point for Irish pilgrims is the Irish Camino Society website which can be accessed here. If you are choosing to travel on the Camino as a pilgrim (and who wouldn't!), you will need a pilgrim passport (credencial), which you can get from them before travelling (see here).  You'll need to get this stamped at different places on your walk such as bars, churches, albergues (hostel-style pilgrim accommodation) etc. during the day if you wish to get the official certificate (Compostela) at the end of your trip. You will also have to walk in excess of 100kms/cycle 200kms and undertake the journey for cultural or spiritual reasons in order to qualify for the Compostela at the end of your journey, which can be obtained from the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago. 

You don't have to stay in the albergues as there's a varied range of accommodation from small hotels/pensions/private hostels to B & B style accommodation. Along the main routes this is well set up but somewhat less so on the quieter or less frequently travelled routes. The internet is your friend in this case, but word of mouth is even better. If you decide to stay in the albergues, occasionally you can book in advance but more often than not you can't and will just have to hope for the best. It is part of the experience but it's just not for some people, so do your research and let that inform your decision. 

There's a well-visited forum at https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/ with numerous lists of accommodation and information on routes. John Brierly, an Irish author, has published many guides on the routes with accommodation. These are available in the library or in bookshops. A good tip is just to bring photocopies of the pages you need, rather than lugging a whole book with you. 

One of the biggest fears most people have is that they'll get lost. Firstly, all of the main routes are well marked-follow the yellow shell symbol (as in the pic) or yellow arrows. They're everywhere. Secondly, the likelihood is that you will be walking within a group and although you should always keep an eye out for yourself, following the herd is perfectly acceptable on the Camino. If you want backup, there are numerous apps and maps and who hasn't been coaxed along the road by a proud local wishing you a Buen Camino and steering you in the right direction using the international language of hand gestures!

This leads to the question of what to bring with you. It's a hard one to answer. Travelling light is always best and, trust me, you won't use a third of what you have in your rucksack. If you don't want to carry everything on your back, there are transport services available which will collect your luggage from one place and drop it off at your next stop or at a place of your choosing. The Spanish post office, Correos, has an excellent luggage transfer service but there are numerous local transport companies that will do the same (see https://www.elcaminoconcorreos.com/en/rucksack-transfer).  

Of course, these tips are for those who wish to travel independently and organise their own trip. If this isn't for you, there are many Irish-based companies who offer to organise everything for you. 

The Camino de Santiago, whichever route you choose, deserves its mythical status. While many say it changed their life, at a basic level is will take you out of your comfort zone and loosen you up.  Having nothing to do all day, day after day, but walk for hours through a beautiful country, feeling the kind of peace you get from long walk and being grateful for a bed and shower and some food and a glass of wine at the end of it. Not to mention the people you meet and stories you hear. 

Even if you think you're not looking for anything, you'll find something. 

All photos ©F. Maguire. Please do not reproduce without permission.