With the welcome news that inter-county travel will be permitted from May 10th, it might be a good time to start planning to escape-at long, long last.
To tempt fate, I thought I'd follow up on the Camino post from a few weeks ago with some multi-day walking routes in Ireland. In recent years, these have been marketed as 'Irish Caminos' or 'Celtic Caminos' and form part of the Pilgrim Paths initiative, more information on which can be found here.
Starting in the West, the Tóchar Phadraig starts at Ballintubber Abbey and finishes at the car park at the foot of Croagh Patrick, covering a distance of approximately 35kms. The Abbey, which was founded in 1216 AD by Cathal Cródhearg O'Conor, is located just off the N84, between Claremorris and Castlebar.
The Tóchar is said to follow the ancient chariot road from Rathcroghan to Cruachan Aille, the ancient name for Croagh Patrick. You have to register at the Abbey (cost €10), and you will also be able to pick up a map of the route and a guidebook there. Note that the route is incorrectly marked on the OSi Discovery Series maps (30 and 38), so it's definitely worth getting the official one from the Abbey. Pilgrim passports, for the authentic Camino experience, are also available (Contact: Ballintubber Abbey, Ballintubber, Claremorris, Co. Mayo, F12 W584. Phone: 094 9030934; Email: info@ballintubberabbey.ie). Important details at the bottom of the page here.
To tempt fate, I thought I'd follow up on the Camino post from a few weeks ago with some multi-day walking routes in Ireland. In recent years, these have been marketed as 'Irish Caminos' or 'Celtic Caminos' and form part of the Pilgrim Paths initiative, more information on which can be found here.
Starting in the West, the Tóchar Phadraig starts at Ballintubber Abbey and finishes at the car park at the foot of Croagh Patrick, covering a distance of approximately 35kms. The Abbey, which was founded in 1216 AD by Cathal Cródhearg O'Conor, is located just off the N84, between Claremorris and Castlebar.
The Tóchar is said to follow the ancient chariot road from Rathcroghan to Cruachan Aille, the ancient name for Croagh Patrick. You have to register at the Abbey (cost €10), and you will also be able to pick up a map of the route and a guidebook there. Note that the route is incorrectly marked on the OSi Discovery Series maps (30 and 38), so it's definitely worth getting the official one from the Abbey. Pilgrim passports, for the authentic Camino experience, are also available (Contact: Ballintubber Abbey, Ballintubber, Claremorris, Co. Mayo, F12 W584. Phone: 094 9030934; Email: info@ballintubberabbey.ie). Important details at the bottom of the page here.
There's a good description of the walk, landmarks along the way and some handy tips in John G. O'Dwyer's book Pilgrim Paths in Ireland-A Guide, published by the Collins Press (€15).
The Slí Cholmcille or Way of St Colmcille is a 65km route which forms part of the Slí Dhún na nGall. This one is top of my list for the summer. Named after the sixth century Irish saint, it's graded overall a moderate walk. It starts and finishes in the village of Ardara and encompasses the villages of Glencolmkille, Kilcar and Carrick in south-west Donegal. Walking the route clockwise is recommended. There seems to be a good bit of road walking and there are boggy off-road sections but the scenery is said to be spectacular as it winds its way around the coast and through the mountains. Port, the most westerly village in Donegal and the Glengesh Valley get a special mention. There is accommodation en route, which makes it quite doable with a bit of forward planning. Downloadable maps are available on the Sport Ireland website. The OSi Discovery Series 10 covers the area. Slí Cholmcille is said to be well-signposted and well-maintained. It also now forms part of the Appalachian Way, the long-distance American trail. This year is the 1500th anniversary of Colmcille's birth, so walking in his footsteps around beautiful Donegal might be a good way to celebrate it.
If you were really organised, you would time your trip to coincide with the Turas Cholmcille usually completed between the 9th of June, which is the Saint's feast day, and the 15th of August. By all accounts, it's one for the hardier types. Traditionally completed barefoot (and at night if you so choose), it's a tough 5km route which also seems to have a tradition of sinking pilgrims! It starts on the outskirts of Glencolmkille village. For up to date information, there's contact details and further information at http://www.colmcille.org/glencolmcille.
There's a fair bit of road walking but the scenery makes up for it. The last day walking towards the sea to the beautiful fishing village of Ardmore was a highlight for me but there was plenty of good things to choose from.
If you want an authentic Camino experience, a 'pilgrim passport' scheme was established in 2017. Passports are available from the Camino Society Ireland (see here). Some routes, such as the Tóchar Phádraig, also have their own passports, as referred to above. Once you have completed five of the Celtic Camino routes, you will qualify for a Teastas certificate, which can be obtained from Ballintubber Abbey.
It's been a long, tough winter. If Covid has taught us anything, it's that we don't know what's coming next. Let us not waste any more time. Turn your face (and feet) towards the sun and let the proverbial shadows fall behind you. Buen Camino!
